




M16-JPIndigo Japanese Selvedge Denim
The slimmest we do without being skinny. Slim leg that tapers from the knee down. 16oz selvedge denim from Japan. Satisfyingly starchy. Made properly to our own pattern in London.
Next level M16s
Japanese selvedge denim has earned itself global prestige. If you like to dip your toes into the unusual and interesting, then you’ll love getting your legs in these threads.
The M16-JP are the Japanese edition of our updated “M” fit. If you’ve worn older versions of the M16 you’ll love the small adjustments we’ve made to our original pattern to make them look and feel even better. They feature all the good stuff you get in a pair of HebTroCo jeans: Hardwearing, quality selvedge denim as a base; five button fly with solid brass buttons; a chunky leather patch on the back to feed your belt under; five pockets plus our signature “secret pocket” hidden in the left pocket bag to safety stow your loose change.
Denim with the wow factor
16oz for a start, nice and weighty. Fresh out of the bag, satisfyingly starchy – a typical Japanese trait that will help the denim develop strong fades. They’ll feel stiffer on first wear than any of our other jeans and will likely take a couple of weeks to soften up. Enjoy making them your project.
The denim is from Collect, one of the most respected Japanese denim mills. It’s made from a blend of long staple cotton from the USA and Brazil. The variation in the thickness of the yarn gives a gentle slubby look. You can see this in the occasional ecru vertical lines that contrast with the predominantly dark indigo shade. Unique like a fingerprint, full of character and charm that never stops developing as you wear your story into them.
It's in the details
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100% Cotton
a blend of USA and Brazilian long staple cotton. -
Selvedge denim woven by Collect Mill Japan
Renowned for their development of traditional raw denim. -
Raw denim
Unwashed denim in its raw form. Wear in your own fades. -
Selvedge stripe
Visible when worn with a turn-up (ships without turn up). -
Sanforised
to limit first wash shrinkage. None in the waist. Up to 1″ in leg length (we include an extra inch to allow for this). -
5-button fly
for a quicker draw. -
Proper belt loops
that take a 1.5″ belt. -
Solid brass buttons
of which 80% is recycled. No toxic finishes. HebTroCo skull top button. Made by Berning in Germany. -
Leather patch
you can feed your belt under. Featuring our new design inspired by the Calderdale moors. -
5-pocket design
-
Secret pocket
built into the pocket bag of front left pocket. -
Lining for strength
in the bottom of back pockets. -
Heavyweight 11oz pocketing
made from 100% cotton.

Japanese Influence
Denim started in Europe and became jeans in America. The best were made of raw denim, woven on shuttle looms with a self edged stripe.
Jeans evolved from worker wear to the uniform of rodeo riders and outlaw bikers. The movies added the magic and then everybody wanted some.
Mass market production went into full swing and denim started being woven on faster more productive looms. It was no longer selvedge but full width instead. Stretch, stone wash and artificial wear and tear were introduced.
Our denim experience started here as kids in the 1970s when we nagged our parents to buy us a pair of the newly fashionable blue jeans. We didn’t know then that the best jeans were the old dark blue ones. They appreciated this in Japan though and with their love of vintage Americana, the old pairs were hunted down and then the denim itself was reproduced. So started the modern jeans revival that spread from Japan back to Europe and America, completing the circle. And that’s probably the reason you’re now here.
More about the make...
GOTS 100% Organic Cotton
Global Organic Textile Standard sets the bar for sustainably and ethically sourced organic cotton.
It is the most widely recognised voluntary certification for organic textiles. This stringent standard requires complete supply chain traceability, strong social compliance, and environmental management practices while banning the use of GMOs and highly hazardous chemicals.
Cotton arrives in its raw form at the Candiani mill. They manage every aspect of its transformation from raw fibre into denim cloth.
Denim from Collect
Collect Mill was established in 1992 in Kojima as part of the Japanese old-style-denim renaissance. Along with other renowned mills they started to reproduce traditional raw denim,
They have an artisanal approach to denim production with an emphasis on taking more time to make less cloth better. Highest quality cotton only is selected and blended. The tension and stubbiness (uneven thickness) of yarn is varied by experienced specialists to define the final look and feel of your jeans.
Everything is rope dyed rather than on a beam. The yarns are twisted together and cycled through repeated dipping and oxidisation. The process results in deeper darker tones and gives a ‘3D colour’. Again this involves a greater investment of time.
Made for us in London
These jeans are made for us in Walthamstow, London by Blackhorse Lane Atelier. They have the reputation of making some of the very best jeans in the world. Turn them inside out and you’ll see for yourself, the quality of finish is exceptional.
Like us BLA are small scale, independent and value quality above all else.
Size Guide
Turn-ups: We’ve styled the M16-JP to be worn without a turn-up. If you prefer to wear your jeans with a permanent turn-up, choose a longer leg length to accommodate this. For example, if you’re a 30″ leg and you’d like to fold in a turn-up, choose a 32″.
Your HebTroCo jeans are made with an extra 1-inch in the leg to compensate for first wash shrinkage (e.g. a 30″ will measure 31″ before first wash). Any shrinkage will be in the leg, not the waist.
In the photos: Ed is 5’8″ / 10.5 stone and wears 30 waist, 28 leg.
SIZE | 30 | 32 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1/2 Waist (A) | 15.6 | 16.5 | 17.5 | 18.5 | 19.5 | 20.5 |
Leg Opening (B) | 7.0 | 7.1 | 7.2 | 7.3 | 7.4 | 7.5 |
Inside Leg (C) | As per your selection |
SIZE | 30 | 32 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1/2 Waist (A) | 39.5 | 42 | 44.5 | 47 | 49.5 | 52 |
Leg Opening (B) | 17.7 | 18 | 18.3 | 18.6 | 18.9 | 19.1 |
Inside Leg (C) | As per your selection |
Reviews
Aidlesultan –
A truly class pair of jeans. In a world of cost cutting, where once good products slowly get cheapened to the point that they’re no longer fit for purpose, HebTroCo have broken the mould. These are a solid pair of jeans in every sense. The material, stitching and finishing are second to none. They’re extraordinarily comfortable pretty much out the box which, considering how stiff they are initially, is testament to their fit. After just one day I absolutely love these jeans and I know will just get better and better. Finally they address a great bug bear of mine as they have pockets that are both deep enough, and crucially, sturdy enough to withstand the ravages of the modern age – no longer will I be traipsing up the road the clothes menders to get new pockets on my sub-1 year old jeans. To quote Aldo Gucci ‘quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten.
Jason Hearne (verified owner) –
Where to start … crikey these are good.
This is my third pair of HebTroCo denim jeans and they really are the best so far. Small tweaks to the previous M16 design that really make a huge difference: bigger pockets, additional fly button, super stiff neppy Japanese denim, and a slightly different cut that makes them feel less restrictive (bending down in my double blacks can be a work out) without adding stretch into the material.
I’ve no doubt these are going to fade exceptionally well with honeycomb creasing setting in after even the first day of wear.
Out of the box these stood up on their own which filled me with a degree of “comfort fear” but once they’re on and have warmed up to your body a little the fear disappeared and they immediately felt like a second skin.
Look … these are expensive, there’s no question of that, but honestly 16oz Japanese denim made this well will last long beyond the point where your Asda jeans will cost almost this amount.
Do yourself a favour. Treat yourself to some quality gear and support a great Yorkshire business in the process.
And in the interest of fairness … one very minor critique … there’s no branded tag on the rear pockets which is a shame because honestly I’d want everyone who sees me wearing these to know precisely where they came from and where they can get a pair.