The next leg of the story

We launched our first denim jeans in 2019. It’s been deep learning and a deeper love since. Little did we know how hooked we’d become.

We’ve carefully considered design, fit, environmental impact, cloth and quality of make. We’re proud to offer you a pair of jeans that will last, made with care and attention to detail right here in Britain.

14oz selvedge denim

British made to last

100% plastic free

All the fabrics and threads used in the 178 are made from naturally occurring, biodegradable materials: 100% cotton denim, 100% cotton pocketing and labels all sewn together using Tencel™ thread derived from wood pulp. The solid brass buttons can be removed and repurposed or recycled when the 178 jeans reach their end of life.

HebTroCo in Dundee wearing the 178 selvedge denim jeans

It's in the details

100% Regenagri® cotton

grown on farms practicing regenerative agriculture.
What’s this?

Raw sanforized denim

Unwashed denim in its raw form for a darker indigo that will develop contrasting fades with wear

5-button fly

for a quicker draw

Solid brass buttons

of which 80% is recycled. No toxic finishes. Top button bears the HebTroCo skull. Made by Berning in Germany.

Strong bar tack reinforcements

for strength and durability

lining for strength

in the bottom of back pockets

selvedge denim woven by Candiani

Italian masters of denim, renowned for their environmental credentials

Selvedge stripe

visible when worn with a turn-up. What is selvedge?

Sewn with Tencel™ thread

instead of poly-cotton, making the 178 completely plastic free

proper belt loops

that take a 1.5″ belt

Leather patch

chunky leather you can feed your belt under. Featuring our new design inspired by the Calderdale moors. Each patch will vary in colour – different beasts, different finish.

Heavyweight 11oz 100% cotton pocketing

classic five pocket style

secret pocket

built into the pocket bag of front left pocket

HebTroCo 178 Jeans
178 selvedge denim jeans

Born of strong relationships

We get to know who we’re working with face to face. When things go right we know who to thank and when it goes wrong we know we can work things out together.

The 178 comes from two of these relationships. We visited the Candiani denim mill in Milan and they showed us that it’s possible to remove all plastic from jeans production by sewing with Tencel thread instead of poly-cotton. We’re also using buttons without plastic inserts and all labels are 100% cotton.

Candiani also suggested that we made contact with Blackhorse Lane Atelier in London who have the reputation of making some of the very best jeans in the world. Like us they’re small scale, independent and value quality above all else. We went to meet Han and his team and have been getting to know each other ever since. Amelia designed our pattern in-house, Blackhorse Lane developed first samples and now our production order.

100% regenagri® certified cotton

Regenerative Agriculture is the antidote to damaging, intensive farming. Farming with nature. Not just avoiding synthetic fertiliser and pesticides but using extra ecological practices.

Intensive farming leads to soil degradation. Regenerative agriculture is a way of farming that builds and improves soil fertility, whilst sequestering and storing atmospheric CO2, increasing on farm diversity and improving water and energy management.

Woven by Candiani

Candiani have been our denim supplier for the past six years. Their approach to production innovation and sustainability is nothing short of exceptional. It’s no wonder they are considered the world’s most eco denim mill.

The 178 jeans are made from Candiani selvedge denim and have the highest environmental credentials.

Environmental sustainability is at the forefront of all stages of production of Candiani denim. Using BCI cotton, a micro-plastics-free dye process, solar power and water recycling to name some of the process used.

Plant based (biodegradable, non toxic, microplastics-free) sizing compound is used in the dyeing process, replacing all hazardous chemicals that are commonly used in the denim industry

What is Selvedge denim?

Selvedge is woven on old-school 1950s shuttle looms. Unlike their modern day equivalent, selvedge looms weave at a slower tempo and narrower width, producing a lower yield of denim. This is why selvedge is more expensive and not usually the go-to choice. It is, however, inherently more characterful and hardier, which trumps everything in our opinion.

Selvedge denim can be identified by its signature stripe. You can see the selvedge in the 178 if your turn-up the cuff. This stripe is the edge of the denim cloth, self-finished (or ‘self-edged’) by the loom. The loom achieves this by passing the weft (the horizontal thread) repeatedly back and forth as a continues piece of thread. Modern looms cut the weft on each pass leaving the edges raw and vulnerable to unravelling – a potential risk for the overall strength of the weave. 

HebTroCo 178 Selvedge Jeans turn up
HebTroCo denim on the Selvedge loom at Candiani in Milan

Care

The 178 jeans are made from raw selvedge denim. Please follow the wash and care instructions included with your order to avoid f*cking it up.

Raw denim is not colourfast and requires special attention when laundering. 

For the best fades, washing less often will yield better results. Take a look at our denim care online guide for a comprehensive overview on what’s required.

Sizing Guide

Ed is 5’8″ / 10.5 stone and wears 30 waist, 28 leg.

The out of the bag leg length includes an extra 1-inch to compensate for first wash shrinkage. Any shrinkage will be in the leg, not the waist.

We’ve styled the 178 to be worn without a turn-up. If you prefer to wear your jeans with a permanent turn-up, choose a longer leg length to allow for this.

Any questions at all please email us and we’ll do our best to guide you.

  • INCHES
  • CM
SIZE 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44
1/2 Waist (A) 15.6 16.5 17.5 18.5 19.5 20.5 21.5 22.4
Leg Opening (B) 8.1 8.3 8.4 8.5 8.6 8.7 8.9 9.0
Inside leg (C) As per your selection (includes extra 1 inch for first wash shrinkage, e.g 30" measures 31")
SIZE 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44
1/2 Waist (A) 39.5 42 44.5 47 49.5 52 54.5 57
Leg Opening (B) 20.7 21 21.3 21.6 21.9 22.2 22.5 22.8
Inside leg (C) As per your selection (includes extra 1 inch for first wash shrinkage, e.g 30" measures 31")

Reviews

  1. Anthony Acres (verified owner)

    My 178’s arrived today, the usual outstanding quality, I expected nothing less. Well up to the standard of all my other HebTroCo purchases. I own a few pairs of the canvas and mole skin GVNR’s and a pair of 177 denims, these 178’s are a more relaxed fit and look like they will “wear in” nicely.
    They are certainly well travelled too, after a 450 mile round trip from Walthamstow to Hebden Bridge and back to Chingford! Had I realised when ordered them, they are made only a short bus ride from home. Still, good to see small businesses being supported all over the country and your local Post Office as well.

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